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by Fred McMillin
for December 16, 1997
From Venice with Love
The Culinary Scene...3000 Years Ago
The vineyard is the Capitel Croce, six acres of volcanic, south-facing terrain. "Capitel". (little chapel) refers to a small chapel adjacent to the vineyard.
The varietal is the Garganega, which evolved in that area many centuries ago, and there is a lot of it. In fact, the acres of Garganega is about equal to that of the entire Napa Valley (roughly 33,000). It has an almond character, detectable in the Croce.
I put a bottle of Roberto's 1994 up against whites from seven other wineries in my last blind tasting. It was not the most expensive, but was the most appreciated. It was voted BEST OF THE TASTING, garnering 10% more votes than the second-place bottle. It clearly is one of Roberto's gems.
Postscript: For more about Soave, see the July 30, 1997 WineDay titled "Romeo, Juliet and Soave."
Read more articles by Fred McMillin in the eGGsf
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