by Fred McMillin
for July 15, 1997
A Down-to-Earth Wine
Prologue: "Earthy flavors in wine are easy to recognize, almost impossible to describe."
...Encyclopedia of Wine by Schoonmaker and Bespaloff
The Rest of the Story: OK, it's difficult to describe "earthy," but let's try. Truffles, concrete, mushrooms, dust, gravel...in both the nose and the mouth. That's about the best we can do. But a taste is worth a thousand words, so we suggest you take a sip of Sebastiani's "Old Vine" 1994 Mourvedre. The grape is noted for producing earthy wines. Winemaker Mark Lyon detects it in the first sniff, and finds it still there as the flavors linger in the back of the throat. So, if you want to learn what "earthy" means, grab a bottle or two of this one before they're all gone.
1994 "Old Vines" Mourvedre, Appellation—California
Postscript: Mourvedre has gained its fame as a Rhone Valley varietal, but that's not home. It originated in Spain, where there is a town near Valencia called Murviedro.
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