by Fred McMillin for April 30, 1997 A Swell Zinfandel Prologue: "The Rocky Top Vineyard Zinfandel vines were planted prior to Prohibition [1920]. They produce tiny crops having some of the most intense flavors we've ever harvested"...from proprietor Lee Sobon (rhymes with "bone") The Rest of the Story: As a Senior Research Scientist for the Lockheed Space Lab, Lee Sobon was always tinkering and exploring...and he didn't stop when he started making Zinfandel in Amador County two decades ago. It soon became clear that the high-alcohol, blockbuster prevailing style had a VERY BIG appeal to a VERY SMALL number of devotees. However, a winery cannot live with a cult wine alone. So he conducted a number of experiments...harvesting earlier... fermenting at lower temperatures, etc. When the dust settled, he had a Zin with much broader appeal. Berry flavors now dominated; harshness disappeared as alcohol and tannin contents were lowered. If you want to taste what Lee has accomplished, try his rich 1993 Rocky Top. It's hard to find a more satisfying California red for $13.50. 1993 Zinfandel, Rocky Top Vineyard, Amador County Sobon Estate Winery, Calif. Registered Landmark 762 Plymouth, Amador County, CA Phone (209)245-6554 $13.50 Category: Highly recommended in its price range Postscript: Why is the relatively new Sobon Estate Winery a state landmark? Well, a Swiss emigrant, Adam Uhlinger, put together the original buildings and planted vines in 1856. Thus, it is a landmark because it is the third oldest California winery. Shirley and Lee Sobon bought it in 1989 and have developed a museum to preserve the artifacts and other contributions from the prior owners, particularly the D'Agostini family that owned it most of this century. About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College and is Northern California Editor for American Wine on the Web. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

Welcome to WineDay, the electronic Gourmet Guide's daily update. Monday through Thursday, WineDay presents a wine profile. Then on Fridays we present the Winery of the Week to take you through the weekend Current WineDay January WineDays February WineDays March WineDays 04/29/97 Methoxypyrazines?? 04/28/97 Catch a Cab from Chile 04/25/97 Winery of the Week Cline Cellars 04/24/97 How to Have a Sparkling Passover 04/23/97 A Fine Wine for Passover 04/22/97 A Seven-Vineyard Chardonnay 04/21/97 Drink the Gold 04/18/97 Winery of the Week Raymond Vineyard and Cellar 04/17/97 A Chardonnay That Came to Play 04/16/97 The Longest Name in the Valley 04/15/97 Raising Syrah to New Heights 04/14/97 Learn to say Vee-oh-nyay, For come what may It's here to stay 04/11/97 Winery of the Week Mirassou Vineyards and Winery 04/10/97 When Cape Mentelle Rang the Bell 04/09/97 Where to Grow Merlot 04/08/97 What's Hot, What's Not 04/07/97 An All-Pro Pinot 04/04/97 Winery of the Week How the Pope Coped 04/03/97 The Larsen Legend 04/02/97 The Blush Gold Rush 04/01/97 It's the Grapes, Stupid

Global Gourmet | FoodDay Copyright © 1997—the electronic Gourmet Guide, Inc. All rights reserved.