This is a true story. My friends, the Svadolos,
decided their two fine sons might be handicapped
in America with such a last name. So they went
through the legal process of changing their name
to Best.
The next week their happy mother was downtown
shopping and bumped into a former neighbor she
hadn't seen in several years. It went like this...
Neighbor: "Mrs. Svadolo, it's wonderful to see you again." Mrs. S.: "No, no. I'm not Mrs. Svadolo. I'm
now Mrs. Best." Neighbor: ---pause--- "Oh, good. Frankly, I
never DID like your FIRST husband."
The Wrong Name—Wine
This is a true story. About 1880 in the southern
Rhone Valley, French botanist
Dr. Francois Durif (also spelled Duriff) propagates
a variety that still bears his name.
What has that to do with California's Petite Syrah??
"California's Petite Sirah has now been identified
as Durif." (Schoonmaker Wine Encyclopedia, 1988)
"The correct name for Petite Sirah in California
is Duriff." (Noted wine historian Charles Sullivan's
Like Modern Edens, 1982)
"California's Petite Sirah is the little-known
Durif of the Midi." (Master of Wine Jancis Robinson
in Vines, Grapes and Wines, 1986)
So, another name for Petite Sirah is Durif??
WRONG! Critic Bob Thompson summed it up this way
in 1993, "Genetic tests have proved the Petite is not the Duriff."
OK, OK. So here's the name of our Wine of the Day.
1996 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles, (888) EOS-WNRY, FAX (805) 239-2317
Winery—EOS (Eos was the Greek goddess of the dawn, appropriately sister to Helios [sun] and
Selene [moon]).
Vineyard - EOS 187 acres of Paso Robles vines includes 23 acres of Duri--oops--Petite Sirah.
Panel's Comments—Nice wine, pronounced oak, good spice.
Rating—RECOMMENDED
Price—$17
Postscript
Greek: Ampelos-vine; Graphe-writing. Hence,
ampelography is the science of identifying grape
varieties. The first comprehensive works were
published by the French about a century ago. However,
methods have been relatively primitive until
the recent advent of such advanced techniques as
DNA fingerprinting. So, we can all be prepared
for many suprises as the results come in. For
example, as I write this, I hear that some California Petite,
not all, may actually be Duriff. Stay tuned.
About the
Writer
Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history
for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine
courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College.
In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred
with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded
to American wine writers.