by Fred McMillin
for November 4, 1999

Don't Shrink From This Pink

Prologue

"Dry pink wines are on the rise again."

...Critic Dan Berger, Wine Enthusiast

"From a cook's perspective, the better dry rosés have a steely freshness combined with a sometimes suprising depth of flavor that gives them more flexibility with food than many of the standard whites and reds...They match well with 'wintery' dishes like pork tenderloins with apples."

...Ann and Larry Walker, Wine Enthusiast

Super palates like those of Gerald Asher and Wilfred Wong refer to the "sophisticated rosé' wines" of southeastern France, including some of the bottles from the village-district named St.-Chinian. In 1985 the district of St.-Chinian was elevated to CRU status. The New York Times has pointed out that in the area the better wines are now named proudly for both the distict and the estate where they are made.

The Rest of the Story

It was some PINK...the best my panel has tasted so far this year. and here's what the label says.

A fresh, DRY rosé: Rosé of Syrah
Appellation—Saint-Chinian (first vines there were planted by the Romans)
Producer—Chateau Miquel (the Miquel family has owned the site for over two centuries)
Importer—Frederick Wildman (they select regional leaders)
Panelists' Comments: Nice balance, Good flavors, Wonderful food wine
Rating—RECOMMENDED for all who enjoy pinks
Composition—100% Syrah
Prior Owner—For six centuries the vines on the 200 acres were tended by the monks of the Abbey of Fontcaude.
New York Contact—Odila Galer-Noel or Amy Mironov, (800) RED-WINE, FAX (212) 355-4723
Price—$9 range

Postscript

Saint-Chinian is in the center of the largest contiguous vineyard area in the world. It extends in an arc from the Pyrenes foothills east along the French Mediterranean coast to the mouth of the Rhone River. It has more vines and produces more wine than the entire United States.

About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

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