by Fred McMillin
Reely, Reely BIG
Early reviews of wine from grape X:
170 A.D.—The Roman emperor's physician, Galen, says wine from Grape X is of moderate strength, good for the stomach and GOOD IN THE MOUTH! (Source—Hugh Johnson's Vintage)
Later review of wine from Grape X:
...Master of Wine Jancis Robinson
So What's My Name?
I make more wine than any other grape in the world.
I make white wine.
Piece of cake. Must be the noble Chardonnay. NO. NO. NO. Would you believe, it is Trebbiano. (Pliny called it Vinum Trebulanum,grown four miles from Naples.)
How Good is the Wine?
About the quality, are we to believe Pliny's plaudits or Jancis' jabs? Let's talk to the first two vintners to produce a wine in California labelled TREBBIANO.
Ivan Tamas and Steve Mirassou, Sr. tell me how they've made a more intense Trebbie than the Italian model Ms. Robinson was knocking.
Key—Cut the yields. The Treb produces like crazy, spreading the contributions of soil and climate over far too many grapes.
Second—Cold fermentation in stainless steel. The University of California spearheaded the discovery that when the yeast works more slowly, lovely white-grape fruit aromas and flavors appear.
Last—They give it some age, to let the inherently high-acid (tart) Trebbie change into something that's easier on the taste buds; less shock...more echos of Dr. Galen's grape that was GOOD IN THE MOUTH.
Wine of the Day
Tebbiano by Ivan Tamas Winery
If the Trebbiano grape produces the most wine in the world, why doesn't it line the shelves of the supermarkets in America?
Answer: A huge proportion of the wine is distilled into brandy.
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