by Fred McMillin
for June 4, 1999

Winery of the Week

A Canoe Conundrum

Prologue

Canoe Ridge #1—The prestigious Chalone California winery corporation announces in 1990 the purchase of 200 acres in Washington State's Columbia River Valley. The 25,000-case winery will overlook the Columbia River from the site that will provide the winery name, Canoe Ridge. It is commissioned in 1993.

Canoe Ridge #2—One of Washington's oldest and most prestigious wineries, Chateau Ste. Michelle, in 1993 announces the opening of a multimillion-dollar, state-of-the-art winery in the Columbia River Valley, named Canoe Ridge. How to distinguish the two, new Canoes? Well, Chalone's is named Canoe Ridge Vineyard. Ste. Michelle's is Canoe Ridge Estate Winery.

The Rest of the Story

Is the press able to keep this staight? Here are quotes from major wine journals:

"a bright bottling from Canoe Ridge."
"a firm, chewy Cabernet Sauvignon by Canoe Ridge."

Today's Canoe

Our Winery of the Week is Chalone's Canoe Ridge Vineyard. Chalone first became interested in Washington wines when they handled the marketing of the state's Woodward Canyon Winery. Then, there was a matter of costs if one wished to expand in in 1990...and of attitudes. Napa Valley land was approaching $30,000 an acre, and newcomers were not welcome. However, Washington embraced such an investment, and Columbia Valley slopes were a mere $1,000 an acre.

And talk about timing. Two-thirds of the initial planting was Merlot, and subsequently Washington State Merlot becomes one of the hottest wines in the U.S.A. with fine critical response to their Chardonnay and Cabernet, as well as the Merlot, they have recently planted another 20 acres. Winemaker John Abbott (pictured) has found the Canoe Ridge tempertures are less extreme than in the central Yakima Valley. The warmer winters and cooler summers = grapes spend more time on the vine = enhanced flavors and stronger red pigments. While his vines are young, he and his customers are very happy with the results. But remember, the name is Canoe Ridge Vineyard.

Postscript

The Chalone Group has five, fine California vineyards (Acacia, Edna Valley Vineyard, etc.), all of which enjoy a warmer climate than that of their new Washington cousin. So last spring, which of the six was first to have the buds burst forth in the warm spring sunshine? Canoe Ridge Vineyard!

Credits: Northwest Wines, Ed. 1 & 2, Prather, et. al.

About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

Copyright © 1999—the electronic Gourmet Guide, Inc. All rights reserved.