by Fred McMillin
for March 16, 1999

Clink with Pink

Prologue

"The original intention of the clink was to produce a bell-like noise so as to banish the devil, who is repelled by bells."

...P. Dickson, Toasts

A lot of crimes have been committed in the name of Rosé (roh-zay). Because pink wines are popular with beginners, some producers felt it wouldn't be noticed if the wine was less than perfect.

...Mary Everly, Vintner's Table Cookbook

The Rest of the Story

Crimes! The Devil! Doesn't sound much like a wine review, but it is. Here's a pink you can clink that contains no "crimes." The Pedroncellis have produced a Zinfandel Rosé longer than any other winery on the planet...about 40 years. Winemaker John Pedroncelli describes it with such words as raspberry, watermelon, luscious fruit, yet crisp.

Chef Everly tells us how to pair it with food. "Only simple, direct, fruity wines stand up to sweet and hot spices. The crispness is needed to refresh the palate, which explains why the overly sweet pinks are not so successful with food. (See her Turkey Chili Mole recipe on page 92; her phone, 707-433-6981.)

The Wine

1997 Zinfandel Rosé, Sonoma County
Pedroncelli Winery
Location—In Geyserville since 1927
Composition—100% Zinfandel
Vineyard—The grapes are entirely from their own vineyard on the rocky hillside of one of the very best Zinfandel sites in the world, the Dry Creek Valley.
Winemaking—Only 24 hours in contact with the skins, giving them time to contribute the lovely color. Then 15 days of cold fermentation to create those direct fruit flavors Chef Everly wants. of course, after all that care we don't mask the tastes with wood, so no oak aging.
Contact—The very knowledgeable Julie Pedroncelli St. John, (800) 836-3894
Price— For the latest vintage of the world's first Zinfandel Rosé, a bargain $7.
Reference—For more on Pedroncelli Zin, see the Nov. 11, 1997 WineDay, "A Veteran & Vintner."

Postscript

Who was the first to clink with pink? Our nominee lived in France about seven centuries ago. He even served it when his son came of age. The son was a prince, and he was a KING! (Louis IX)

About the Writer Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, has taught wine history for 30 years on three continents. He currently teaches wine courses at San Francisco State and San Francisco City College. In 1995, the Academy of Wine Communications honored Fred with one of only 22 Certificates of Commendation awarded to American wine writers.

Copyright © 1999—the electronic Gourmet Guide, Inc. All rights reserved.