Recipe: Partridge Barbajuans

the appetizer:

Fresh from the Market: Seasonal Cooking by Laurent Tourondel with Charlotte March includes recipes like Partridge Barbajuans; Roasted Pheasant with Braised Cabbage & Chestnuts; Pistachio-Crusted Venison with Caramelized Quince & Red Cabbage; and Crispy Octopus & Cranberry Bean Salad with Blood Orange Vinaigrette.

Partridge Barbajuans

Serves 6

Barbajuans are a specialty from the French Riviera, specifically Monaco. These fried dumplings are typically filled with Swiss chard or other greens and cheese.

Special Equipment

Meat grinder

Dough

1 cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of sea salt
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Filling

1 tablespoon canol a oil
2 partridges, 8 to 10 ounces each
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces bacon, cut into 1/4-inch-thick pieces
4 cipolline onions, peeled and quartered 2 cups dry red wine
1 cup Chicken Stock
1 bouquet garni (1 dark green leek leaf, 3 fresh thyme sprigs,
1 bay leaf, 10 whole black peppercorns)
6 Swiss chard leaves, ribs removed
4 ounces foie gras terrine, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 large egg, beaten to blend
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
Vegetable oil for deep frying

Make the dough

Using a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, beat the flour and pinch of salt in the mixer bowl at low speed and gradually add 1/3 cup of water and the olive oil. Mix until the dough is smooth, about 3 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Prepare the filling

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof saucepan over medium-high heat. Season the partridges with salt and pepper. When the oil is nearly smoking, sear the partridges on all sides. Add the bacon and cipolline onions and cook until the onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the chicken stock and bouquet garni. Cover and transfer the saucepan to the oven. Braise until the partridges are tender and the thigh meat shreds easily with a fork, about 1 hour. Remove the pan from the oven, uncover, and allow the partridges to cool in the braising liquid.

Strain the braising liquid, reserving the partridge and the solids, into a clean saucepan. Discard the bouquet garni. Simmer the braising liquid over medium-high heat until the liquid is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool.

Finely chop the bacon and onions and place them in a large bowl. Using your hands, pick the meat from the partridge, discarding the bones and the skin. Transfer the meat to the bowl with the bacon and onions and set aside.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chard and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain the chard and immediately transfer it to a bowl of ice water. Once cool, drain the chard, squeeze out any excess water, and roughly chop it. Place the chard in the bowl with the partridge mixture.

Grind the partridge-chard mixture through a meat grinder fitted with a large die. Return the ground mixture to the bowl and stir in the cooled reduced braising liquid. Gently stir in the foie gras until fully incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Assemble the barbajuans

Divide the dough in half. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out each piece of dough on a lightly floured surface into a sheet 2 feet long and 5 inches wide. Using 1 tablespoonful of filling for each mound, mound the filling in 2 rows of 18 on 1 strip of dough, spacing them 1 inch apart. Brush the second sheet of dough lightly with the beaten egg and lay it, egg side down, over the filling. Press lightly around the filling, making sure the dough has sealed properly and air bubbles are removed. Cut into thirty-six 1-1/2-inch squares; dust with flour.

Fry and serve the barbajuans

Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy pot to 375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the barbajuans until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the barbajuans to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately.

Wine suggestion

Serve this dish with a dark and earthy Pinot Noir that offers flavors of blackberries, cigar tobacco, and tea leaves, such as Pinot Noir, Hanzell, 2005, Sonoma County, California.

Chicken Stock

Yields 10 cups

Using homemade chicken stock makes all the difference in the world. I like to make a batch every couple of weeks to keep on hand. This tried and true stock is the perfect balance of chicken, vegetables, and herbs and is a great building block for many recipes.

3 pounds chicken bones, preferably backs, fat and skin removed
3 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 head of garlic, halved
1 bouquet garni (1 dark green leek leaf, 10 parsley stems,
5 fresh thyme sprigs, and 1 bay leaf)
10 whole black peppercorns

Place the chicken bones in a large heavy stock pot and cover with 12 cups of cold water. Slowly bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Using a ladle or spoon, skim any fat or coagulated proteins from the top of the liquid and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, bouquet garni, and peppercorns and simmer until the liquid is clear, skimming the top as necessary, about 35 minutes.

Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl and cool over ice.

Discard the solids. Once the stock has cooled, transfer it to an airtight container. The stock will keep in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days or several weeks in the freezer.

Bouquet Garni

Bouquet garni are simply bundles of herbs and aromatics wrapped with a 5-inch long dark green leek leaf and tied together with kitchen string. To make the bouquet, spread the leek leaf open and place the herbs and aromatics in the middle. Fold the leaf tightly around the herbs, then wrap a piece of kitchen string around the leaf multiple times and tie to secure.