Recipe: Pappardelle with Ragú

the appetizer:

Braises and Stews by Tori Ritchie presents easy and perfect cold weather recipes, including Thai Fish and Corn Curry; Pappardelle with Ragú; and Portuguese Clam and Sausage Stew.

Pappardelle with Ragú

Serves 6

In Italy, pasta ribbons are often topped with a wild boar sauce that's essentially a meaty, earthy stew. You can make a close facsimile with pork or with lamb (if you like a gamier taste), or a combination of the two. For another layer of flavor, serve over Herbed Wide Noodles (page 121 of the book) instead of pappardelle or garnish with Basil Gremolata (page 134).

2 pounds boneless lamb stew or pork stew (from shoulder)
or 1 pound each, trimmed of excess fat
Kosher salt
Olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, diced
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup red wine
1 teaspoon paprika
1 large can (28 ounces) chopped tomatoes
plus 1 can (14-1/2 ounces) chopped tomatoes
1 bay leaf
1 pound pappardelle pasta or wide egg noodles
1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano cheese

Cut the meat into 1-inch pieces, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Coat the bottom of a 5-to 7-quart Dutch oven with a thin film of the oil and set pot over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, add enough meat to cover bottom in 1 layer. Cook, without stirring, until meat lifts easily from pot with tongs and is well browned on bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer meat to a plate and continue with remaining meat, adding more oil to pot in between batches as needed.

When last batch of meat has been removed, drain off all but about 1 tablespoon fat from pot. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until it renders most of its fat, about 1 minute. Add the onion, carrots, and celery. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and cook for 1 minute, stirring to release browned bits. Return meat and any accumulated juices to pot and stir in the paprika. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf and let come to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until meat falls into shreds when pushed with the side of a spoon, about 2-1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Turn off heat and let stand while you cook the pasta.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add pappardelle; cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain pappardelle and divide among pasta bowls. Stir the parsley into ragú, ladle over pasta, sprinkle with cheese, and serve.